Menswear Runway / Tradeshow Trends – Present & Future

While pouring through images of the most recent menswear trade shows and runway collections I’m starting to notice a trend in prints, colors, and themes that I believe will carry over in to 2014’s style.

Trend – Hunting Gear Influenced

Lets just call this new style “Huntsman Chic” or “Urban Camouflage”. Bright orange puffy jackets, hats, and accessories litter the runways accompanied by hunter green camouflage jackets, pants, and shirts.

 

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Vest by Michael Bastien

 

 

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Jacket by Michael Kors

 

 

 

Ready to Wear Fall Winter 2013 Maison_de_la_Cour New York Fashion Week Feb 2013

 

 

 

 

 

Scarf by Maison de LaCour

 

 

 

[pics courtesy of StyleSight.com]

William Buckley from MRketplace confirms my observations in his recent write up of New York’s most recent Market Week for menwear.

With this season’s New York men’s market at an end, three cyclical trends stood out like sore sartorial thumbs. Across Capsule, Project, Agenda and MRket, it seemed almost every brand present displayed one or more of the F/W ’13 triumvirate: studs, leopard print, and camo. Lots of camo. If we didn’t see camo on a rack or stand in each booth, it was being physically worn by the person(s) there, or finally, failing that, being sat on.

I’d like to point out that Buckley even states that this trend is a cyclical trend, meaning we will continue to see camouflage pop back up in Fall/Winter 2014!

I have to believe that this is part of the trickle up theory in the fashion industry. Since hunting is now commonly a workingman sport, designers are trying to make this a trendy, hip style for white collar men to adopt.

Menswear and the Bespoke Movement

With in the last 5 years, Americans have been shifting away from mass production into a more tailored, handmade, handcrafted product movement. Whether this be for the food we eat, the home furnishings we use, or (for the purposes of this blog) the clothing we wear.

FSC menswear

In my research I’ve just come across the brand, Freemans Sporting Club, a company specializing in men’s dress clothes. More importantly, their focus is on tailoring and customization.

“Freemans Sporting Club was established to pay tribute to the vanishing art of American handmade goods, and the quality and durability inherent in something made by skilled artisans.

F.S.C. offers a roughly hewn yet refined reinterpretation of this bygone era, when a man’s garments were functional and long lasting. “Made Local, Buy Local” are core tenants of the F.S.C. ethos and nearly all of the collection is manufactured within ten miles of the shop.

Every F.S.C. garment is just a few hands removed from where it began and is made by a new generation of artisans, tailors and sewers who once flourished across the US. F.S.C. remains steadfastly dedicated and proud to be an American-made product.” – FSC’s About Statement

 

They measure and make each of their suits in Brooklyn, NY.

“FSC is not the only local menswear brand ringing up sales, thanks to the category’s first meaningful growth spurt in years. Sales of men’s clothing nationwide jumped 4.9%, to $56.5 billion, for the 12 months ended in March, outpacing womenswear, which grew 4.2% in the same period, according to research firm NPD Group Inc. The uptick is paying off handsomely for several companies that produce most of their merchandise in the Big Apple—such proximity provides quality control, and allows for smaller batches of product” – Crains New York Article

 

I feel American consumers are wanting products that will last longer and have a more individualist feel rather than buying something so mass produced that everyone on your block has one, and we’re willing to pay for the exclusivity of that handmade item.

“Consumers are looking for stories because the world is full of mass-produced objects that anyone can buy. So what’s interesting for consumers is a product they can tell people about through the knowledge and experience they gained”
– Henry Mason, head of research and analysis at consultancy Trendwatching

 

freemans

 

Menswear Windows and Displays

Let’s face it. Most men aren’t big fans of shopping. So advertisers and visual merchandisers need to catch their male customer’s eye quickly to grab their interest to come into their store and shop.

Here are a few current window displays and in-store displays for menswear and the menswear department.

p2i1 This amazing display is by Moncler

p3i3 Back to school theme for men at Top Man

p4i5 bold primary colors are shown at Saks Fifth Avenue

[all pictures courtesy of Stylesight.com]

Theme – there seems to be theme of clean-cut-ness in upcoming menswear. Collars, tailored cuts, and a dressier look is what is being shown in store windows and displays.

Culture – I have to believe that this tailored trend is coming from the “trickle down” theory where influence is coming from celebrities and important people in society. The idea of dressing more cleanly and maintaining and image of “upscale” is becoming very popular.

Silhouettes – As stated before, clean cut, slim silhouettes are continuing to trend in current displays.

Top 10 Must Haves for Menswear F/W ’13

1. Shoes – It appears that guys are stepping up their game when it comes to footwear (see what I did there 😉 ). I feel men need  a good statement shoe to complete an outfit from time to time. Here are some great options:

Elliott Evan Loafer Cut out loafer by Elliot Evan

Jeremy Scott Creeper amazing checkerboard creepers by Jeremy Scott

Ready to Wear Fall Winter 2013 Lacoste New York Fashion Week Feb 2013 pumped up kicks 😉 by Lacoste

2. Outfits / Entire Looks – I like to call this style “Grunge Ninja” . It’s when you’re dressed in head to toe black, but your jacket, shirt, pants, etc have asymmetrical, or almost messy, features.

Rochambeau Outfits by Rochambeau (from GQ.com)

Ready to wear fall winter 2013 Elliott Evan New York February 2013 Outfit by Elliot Evan (from StyleSite.com)

3. Color – Mustard Yellow is HUGE for Men’s Fall/Winter 2013 fashion. We’re seeing this appear more in outerwear than any other category. Think of it as your statement jacket, guys.

Perry Ellis by Ducky Brown Jacket by Perry Ellis by Duckie Brown (from Stylesight.com)

J.Crew Jacket by J Crew (from Stylesight.com)

Elliot Evan Jacket by Elliot Evan (from Stylesight.com)

4. Pants – Bold yet tailored is what is in style for Fall/Winter 2013. Heck, can we just call these “statement pants”?

Ready to Wear Fall Winter 2013 Jeremy Scott New York Fashion Week Feb 2013 Mummy Leggings by Jeremy Scott

Marc_by_Marc_Jacobs_mmj_fw13_154 Red Satin trousers Marc by Marc Jacobs

Ready to Wear Fall Winter 2013 Moncler Grenoble New York Fashion Week Feb 2013Quilted bronze pants by Moncler Grenoble

5.Denim – Darker denim is always in favor when it comes to the colder months. It looks like slim fitting jeans will stick around another year for men (I’m totally OK with that :D)

Ready to Wear Fall Winter 2013 DKNY Man NY Fashion Week Feb 2013 DKNY

Ready to Wear Fall Winter 2013 Gilded Age NY Fashion Week Feb 2013 Gilded Age

Gant_by_Michael_Bastian_gbm_m_fw13_017 Gant by Michael Bastian

6.Trims & Embellishments – Touches of Punk are appearing in all areas of menswear this Fall. Leather trims, leather patches, random zippers, deconstructed garments are showing up in everyone’s collections.

Ready to Wear Fall Winter 2013 Michael Kors York Fashion Week Feb 2013 Jacket by Michael Kors

Ready to wear fall winter 2013 Parkchoonmoo New York February 2013 Shirt by Parkchoomoo

Ready to Wear Fall Winter 2013 Gilded Age NY Fashion Week Feb 2013 Jeans by Gilded Age

7. Hats – The tried and true ribbed knitted beanie never fails. It stands the tests of time!

RAG and BONE  menswear fall wintere 2013_14  New_York_january_2013 Rag & Bone

Ready to Wear Fall Winter 2013 DKNY Man NY Fashion Week Feb 2013 DKNY

Ready to Wear Fall Winter 2013 Nautica New York Fashion Week Feb 2013 Nautica

8. Bags – The “Man Bag” is still ever popular in many of the collections coming down the runway for fall 2013. Lots of leather and canvas, sometimes even mixing the two. Blacks, dark blues, greens, browns, and plaids are the pallet this year.

Ready to Wear Fall Winter 2013 DKNY Man NY Fashion Week Feb 2013 DKNY

Billy_Reid_rei_det_fw13_008 Billy Reid

Marc_by_Marc_Jacobs_mmj_fw13_077 Mark Jacobs